On November 18th, Scott Vuocolo's Mercer Watch Company
will join the small army of fledgling micro brands on Kickstarter
battling for the hearts and wallets of watch nerds everywhere. Leading
the charge for Mercer is the Brigadier, a dress/casual automatic. Can it
command authority in this increasingly crowded market? Can it seize the
high ground and outflank the other affordable automatics? Can The Time
Bum finish this review without using another hackneyed military
metaphor? Scott was good enough to loan me his gently used prototype to
find out.
The Brigadier starts with a 42mm
stainless steel case that is well proportioned and peppered with detail.
The lugs are thick, flowing from the round sides of the case, but
without any taper. They are brushed, and when viewed in profile, you see
they are linked from top to bottom, forming a bridge along case sides.
The bottom section of the case and the beveled bezel are polished. Most
interestingly, the side of the bezel is finely grooved, creating yet
another surface variation. The total effect is decidedly masculine yet
sophisticated. The Mercer specs describe a "pumpkin" crown at 3 o'clock
crown. It is bun shaped, fluted, and decorated with a five-point star in
bold relief. The crown is slightly more pronounced than you might
expect, but in perfect proportion with the rest of the case. It does not
screw down. Water resistance is 50 meters. only 30 meters. This is safe for a splash in the sink, but little more. [Update
11/18/14: Scott has informed me that he checked with his factory, and
the watch is actually rated for 50 meters, not 30 as he originally
thought. This makes it safe for surface swimming.]
Both
crystals, front and rear, are sapphire, but the one out front is ever
so slightly domed and treated to an interior anti-reflective coating. The display case back is engraved with the company and model names, along with Mercer's signature cutlass.
Through the window, you will see a Miyota 9015, 24 jewel, automatic.
The movement beats 28.8k times each hour, hacks and hand winds, and has a
power reserve of over 40 hours.
Two dials are offered: black and
white. The prototype wore white. The surface is enameled with a ceramic
coating. An angled chapter index with open, square hour markers
(inverted triangle at 12 o'clock) descends to the first layer, which
contains a black printed minute track and applied,
polished markers. The 12, 6, and 9 are Arabic, a date window replaces
the 3, and the remainder are bars. The center is cut away to reveal a
cross hatch guilloche center. Scott kept dial text to a minimum – a
decision I appreciate. The Mercer name and sword logo are positioned on
top, "Brigadier Automatic" down below. The simple baton minute and hour
hands are polished and filled with SuperLuminova. A blue sweep hand provides a spot of color.
It is an attractive dial, tastefully
restrained and nicely detailed. The black brand and logo are gracefully
rendered and not overly large. The layering, applied markers, and
textured center add dimension to the dial. The blue second hand is a
pleasant addition that should be particularly appealing against a black
dial. I was glad to see the hands were luminous as this is a feature
often omitted on dress watches. I always found this curious since many
formal occasions are held at night. On the production model, the markers
on the chapter ring will also be lumed.
At
42mm wide, 49mm long, and 12mm thick, it is a good size for most
buyers, but not oversized. I found it to be an easy fit on my 6.5"
wrist. The thick lines of the case, full crown, and large markers give it great presence, while the
polish and detail of the dial make it clear that the Brigadier leans to
the dressier side of the spectrum. Although it is too stout for to
serve as a traditional dress watch, it is the perfect accessory for
dress casual to business formal attire. Purchasers will have a choice of 22mm brown or black leather straps that taper to 20mm. The review model wore a black strap with white stitching and a brushed buckle. A dressier
option will also be available. It has matching stitching, curved lug
ends that fit flush against the case, and a deployant clasp. The clasp,
buckle, and underside of the strap will be signed on the production
versions.
The Brigadier will easily handle the
transition from the work week to a weekend on the town, but I'd keep it
far from from anything messy, and that is really my only criticism.
With its athletic build, the Brigadier looks like a watch you can wear
anywhere, and if it had higher water resistance, I would. If it had a
screw down crown and 100 meters water resistance, I could easily see it
as a true "all-a-rounder." As it is, it is best kept to dry activities.
Scott adopted a very conservative approach to his creation, and has executed it exceptionally well. The watch does not shout "look at me" but it gets the right sort of attention. Mrs. Time Bum complemented it right away, and that is always a good thing. The Brigadier will list for $400, and pre-orders start at $329.
Pro: Handsome case and dial
Con: Low water resistance limits versatility [Ok, it's not that
low. As noted above, the watch has better WR than initially reported. I
still wish it had a screw down crown, but 50m is a useful improvement.]
Sum: A solid value in a dapper package. The Time Bum approves.
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